My last update was simply a recap of the last four months, so I'll begin from where I left off from the previous post. A town called Sinop on the Black Sea coast was where we'd got up to, so let's start from there...
We cycled out of Sinop, the sun shining hot and bright and headed towards the hills again. We knew we only had a few more days of the hills to go, so we were keen to push on and get them out of the way.
We entered a town just before it was getting dark and decided we would quickly stock up on food. An hour later we left the town in darkness...the first shop - A101, had only taken us 20 minutes to get the neccessaties, but then we passed our favourite shop for fruit and veg - SOK, another 15 minutes was spent in there and then just as we were nearly out of the town we saw a BIM - the best shop for cakes and biscuits.
Panniers loaded up we finally left. The first thing that greeted us out of that town was a brand new perfectly flat main road that had been built right along the coastline. The hills were bypassed and we were very happy, the first flat road in 3 weeks and it arrived earlier than expected. I was so excited I was ready to cycle on through the night, but Dan had just spotted a possible camping spot in the form of a tunnel under the road. It was a perfect fit for the tent and became the first of many tunnels that we'd sleep in through the rest of Turkey.
We cycled out of Sinop, the sun shining hot and bright and headed towards the hills again. We knew we only had a few more days of the hills to go, so we were keen to push on and get them out of the way.
We entered a town just before it was getting dark and decided we would quickly stock up on food. An hour later we left the town in darkness...the first shop - A101, had only taken us 20 minutes to get the neccessaties, but then we passed our favourite shop for fruit and veg - SOK, another 15 minutes was spent in there and then just as we were nearly out of the town we saw a BIM - the best shop for cakes and biscuits.
Panniers loaded up we finally left. The first thing that greeted us out of that town was a brand new perfectly flat main road that had been built right along the coastline. The hills were bypassed and we were very happy, the first flat road in 3 weeks and it arrived earlier than expected. I was so excited I was ready to cycle on through the night, but Dan had just spotted a possible camping spot in the form of a tunnel under the road. It was a perfect fit for the tent and became the first of many tunnels that we'd sleep in through the rest of Turkey.
Our first tunnel
The next morning after a fry-up in the tunnel, I decided to attempt a swim in the sea - as we'd both decided it had to be done before we left the coast. It was a warm morning but I knew the sea would still be freezing. I got down to just my cycling shorts and stood on one of the many boulders lining the coast. I dipped my foot in and it was colder than I'd expected. I slowly edged my way down the slippery boulder until I was nearly up to my knees. I stood there for 5 minutes unable to go any further as it was so cold, and just when starting to doubt myself I slipped and fell in. Dan heard me screaming like a little girl and came running out of the tunnel with his camera. I did a quick swim and 30 seconds later was trying unsuccessfully to climb back up the slippery boulders and out...
Quick swim
Dan had to help me out in the end
The next couple of days were a walk in the park compared to what we'd been used to. The weather was awesome, the roads perfect and a tunnel to sleep in both nights.
Next up was a town called Samsun. We rode the last 20km into the town with a local cyclist who had leg muscles twice the size of mine - and three times the size of Dan's. It was the fastest 20km we'd done and he made me wonder why my legs have never been like his - even after cycling the length of Africa.
Next up was a town called Samsun. We rode the last 20km into the town with a local cyclist who had leg muscles twice the size of mine - and three times the size of Dan's. It was the fastest 20km we'd done and he made me wonder why my legs have never been like his - even after cycling the length of Africa.
We spent a couple of days in Samsun - and were hoping to find someone who would host us through couchsurfing.com, but had no joy. So we camped in a fenced-off area by the sea - possibly a kind of building site. We stayed there for two nights - the first time we'd stayed in the same camping spot twice. On the second morning there was a knock on the tent door - it was a policeman. When he realised we were just a couple of tourists he seemed more interested in how far and fast we cycle - not sure he was impressed. That was our cue to leave though, so we packed up and headed for Trabzon - about 4 days ride away.
We did 105km one of the days - Dan's longest of the trip. Which was all good, apart from it meant Dan could hardly cycle the next couple of days. I'm not much of a cyclist myself - I did a duathalon a few months before this trip...The running part I did quite well at, but the cycling part not so good - I was the 3rd slowest out of 350 people. Dan however, makes me look like a pro.
We did 105km one of the days - Dan's longest of the trip. Which was all good, apart from it meant Dan could hardly cycle the next couple of days. I'm not much of a cyclist myself - I did a duathalon a few months before this trip...The running part I did quite well at, but the cycling part not so good - I was the 3rd slowest out of 350 people. Dan however, makes me look like a pro.
We reached Trabzon a day earlier than we had expected, and therefore were struggling to find anyone on couchsurfing able to host us at such short notice. We sat in the office of a petrol station for a couple hours trying to sort out somewhere to stay. It was dark by this time and after lots of free cups of tea it was time to give up and go and see if we could find somewhere to camp around the city. It didnt take too long luckily, but it wasn't the most hidden spot so were gone early the next morning.
That morning we headed straight back to the petrol station to use the wifi and had another go at finding a couchsurfıng host. This time we were successful - A 22yr old guy called Mustafa agreed to meet us in the afternoon. We met him a bit out of the city next to the University a few hours later, and straight away could tell he was a good guy. We were his first ever guests so he was very excited and nervous. He took us back to his place where he was sharing with three other students - Erdal, Orhan and Rahman. Mustafa gave us his room and he had the couch.
The next few days were exactly what we needed. We hadn't had a proper rest since leaving Istanbul over a month ago. We had had a days rest here and there but never more than the one. Mustafa and the rest of the guys cooked a huge breakfast for us every morning and an equally big dinner on the nights. Then we just chilled out on the laptops, watched live Premier League football, played video games and even caught up on 'The Walking Dead' as Mustafa was also a fan.
The next few days were exactly what we needed. We hadn't had a proper rest since leaving Istanbul over a month ago. We had had a days rest here and there but never more than the one. Mustafa and the rest of the guys cooked a huge breakfast for us every morning and an equally big dinner on the nights. Then we just chilled out on the laptops, watched live Premier League football, played video games and even caught up on 'The Walking Dead' as Mustafa was also a fan.
Erdal, Mustafa and Orhan
Mustafa also liked cycling and was part of a cycling group at Uni. He took us there one of the days and a student fixed both of our bikes - The back wheels on both bicycles were wobbling all over the show and had been doing so for a while, and Dan's brakes needed sorting. We left the Uni with the bikes in the best condition they've been all trip, and just for good measure took them to a petrol garage for a proper clean.
Cost us 30p each
We were then taken to a football match - Trabzonspor v Kayserispor. Trabzonspor aren't having a great season this year, but they have a few good players and are the next best team in Turkey behind the three big Istanbul teams - Galatasary, Fenerbahce and Besiktas. They won 2-1 not very convincingly against bottom of the league. The atmosphere though was incredible and made any other football match I've been to in the past seem tame.
Trabzonspor!
To say thanks to the guys for their incredible hospitality, we decided we'd cook for them one night. With limited options at the supermarket and no oven we were struggling to think of an English meal we could cook. In the end we decided upon bbq chicken with mashed potato, veg and then fried bread for some reason. They asked what it was called - we had no answer for them. The fried bread seemed to go down very well though.
After so many home comforts, so much relaxing and the company of four great guys, it was again very hard to leave. They were all so friendly and generous - as per usual here. Turkey has made me want to make a concise effort to help cyclists, travellers and anyone that looks in need of a bit of help when im back home in the UK. Unfortunately, myself included - i think we are very different in the UK, or London at least - where we try our hardest not to make eye contact with strangers.
We were waved off by all four of the guys, and made our way back through the city to join our road that would take us inland - away from the sea, flat roads, warm temperatures and head off up into the mountains and the cold.
All the guys waving us off
The road was suprisingly flat for the first 10km, and then very gradually began to climb. It slowly got steeper and didn't stop climbing at all for 50km! Half way up we made a detour to see the Sumela Monastary. It was also all uphill to get there - 17km. Why we were even going there i'm not sure, as anything to do with old buildings or temples or ruins usually really bores me, but we did. After the extra 17km uphill to get there we then had to climb hundreds of steps to get to the actual Monastary. From the outside it looked pretty impressive - it was built high up up into the mountain face. When we reached the top though you had to pay to get in - they didn't mention that at the bottom. Relectuntly we paid and wandered in. Four minutes later we were out again, genuinly gutted that we'd just rode 17km uphill, climbed loads of steps and spent my daily budget on the entrance fee. Dan likes this sort of thing a bit more than me but he was as disappointed as I was. We cycled back down the hill and joined the original never-ending ascent and made camp for the night.
Sumela Monastary
Friendly Police slowing down to have a chat
Dan Making pasta, me making scrambbled eggs
A big tunnel with lots of handy pegs in the walls
They next day we only managed 18km as we were up in the clouds by this point and it started raining hard - so we took shelter in a cafe for a few hours and only left when we had to, when it was getting dark. Thankfully there was a tunnel only 5 minutes up the road, so we were dry for the night.
Roof over our head.
We reached the top the next day - Zigana Pass at 2032m high. The next few days ride were pretty spectatular- Snow and mountains all around us the whole way. The tunnels really helped us out through those nights, without them it would have been much colder. They seemed to be getting slightly smaller though - one of the nights we just hung part of the tent over the entrance to the tunnel to stop the draft coming through, and just wore lots of clothes as we weren't sure if the tent would actually fit in there...
The next night the tunnel was just as small, but it was much colder though - so we made it fit...
We took shelter from the cold in the office of a petrol station one day, where everyone was gathered around a huge electric heater. Another day we was invited into a small mosque while everyone was praying, to keep out of the cold. After they finished everyone came over with big smiles and warm handshakes and gestured for us to stay next to the heater while we ate lunch.
The following night we were struggling to find a tunnel or anywhere to camp. Darkness had crept up on us, and we were also low on food. We found a small shop, cafe and tea room all next to each other and both bought a loaf of bread each. Dan went to buy something else to eat for dinner, so I waited with the bicycles. A load of guys came out and started asking where we were going and where we would sleep. When I explained we were camping they all immediately gestured it was too cold and that we must sleep inside. They showed us where to put our bikes - in a room next to the shops and then a guy lead us up some stairs and into the Mosque which was on top of the shop and cafe. He was very excited to show us that there was underfloor heating in the room where we would sleep. We said goodnight and got our camping mats set up on the floor and then started watching a movie on the laptop.
After an hour we were dripping with sweat and our camping mats felt like they were almost on fire. 10 minutes later my mat started making strange noises - like expanding noises, but I ignored it. Then it went crazy - really loud noises started coming from it and then it suddenly started expanding really really fast. It must have been a couple seconds away from exploding before I dove to the bottom of it and realeased the air from the valve. We both decided it was best to sleep on the floor after that. Unfortunatly the huge bulge in my camping mat is permanant...
The following night we were struggling to find a tunnel or anywhere to camp. Darkness had crept up on us, and we were also low on food. We found a small shop, cafe and tea room all next to each other and both bought a loaf of bread each. Dan went to buy something else to eat for dinner, so I waited with the bicycles. A load of guys came out and started asking where we were going and where we would sleep. When I explained we were camping they all immediately gestured it was too cold and that we must sleep inside. They showed us where to put our bikes - in a room next to the shops and then a guy lead us up some stairs and into the Mosque which was on top of the shop and cafe. He was very excited to show us that there was underfloor heating in the room where we would sleep. We said goodnight and got our camping mats set up on the floor and then started watching a movie on the laptop.
After an hour we were dripping with sweat and our camping mats felt like they were almost on fire. 10 minutes later my mat started making strange noises - like expanding noises, but I ignored it. Then it went crazy - really loud noises started coming from it and then it suddenly started expanding really really fast. It must have been a couple seconds away from exploding before I dove to the bottom of it and realeased the air from the valve. We both decided it was best to sleep on the floor after that. Unfortunatly the huge bulge in my camping mat is permanant...
I have to try and sleep around it
The guy who showed us into the Mosque
Two number plates Dan found - make very good mud guards...and a Turkish flag also found on the side of the road
The following day we had another long ascent through the mountains. This time it was even colder - we were cycling through a snow blizzard the whole day and could hardly see a thing. My beard was frozen solid and I couldn't wait to get in the tent. When we reached the top we found a tunnel right on the mountain side overlooking a sea of snow and mountains below us. It would be cold up there, even in the tunnel - but we couldn't pass up the view. When brushing my teeth that night at the end of the tunnel, looking out over the mountains in the moonlight... I decided to myself it was the coolest place I've ever brushed my teeth...
Frozen Beard
The following night wasn't so exciting - We opened up my little laptop to watch a movie while in the tent in a deralict building, to find that the screen had broke. It was obvious straight away that there was no fixing it...
We were both devastated, especially me. Loads of movies are on there, pictures from the trip, music, but most of all its my way of contacting everyone and writing the blog and keeping everything updated - it was a huge blow.
The next day we arrived in Erzurum, where we are now. It's Turkeys coldest city and the last city before we enter Iran. We've been shown around the city last night by one of Mustafa's friends - Mert, who's a student here. He bought us a huge Kebab each, dessert, and roasted chestnuts and wouldn't accept a penny.
Today I've spent nearly all day trying to write this blog. First I tried doing it on Dan's smartphone. I nearly threw it at a wall after an hour though so gave up on that and headed to an internet cafe. The first computer froze after an hour, it lost half of what I'd written so moved to another one. The connection went after another hour on that one, but I only lost a bit of the blog that time, so now on my 3rd computer in here. Dan has had a much more fun day as he headed to the ski slopes and has spent the whole day snowboarding...
The next day we arrived in Erzurum, where we are now. It's Turkeys coldest city and the last city before we enter Iran. We've been shown around the city last night by one of Mustafa's friends - Mert, who's a student here. He bought us a huge Kebab each, dessert, and roasted chestnuts and wouldn't accept a penny.
Today I've spent nearly all day trying to write this blog. First I tried doing it on Dan's smartphone. I nearly threw it at a wall after an hour though so gave up on that and headed to an internet cafe. The first computer froze after an hour, it lost half of what I'd written so moved to another one. The connection went after another hour on that one, but I only lost a bit of the blog that time, so now on my 3rd computer in here. Dan has had a much more fun day as he headed to the ski slopes and has spent the whole day snowboarding...
I desperatly need a supply drop from home now with a new screen, and I'm going to see if one can be sent from home to somewhere in Tehran - Iran's capital, which we should arrive at, in around 3 weeks time.
Turkey has almost come to an end now - it's about 5 days ride to the border of Iran, which we set off for tomorrow. We were here much longer than expected - and I'm very happy about that...It's an incredible country with some of the most amazing people I've ever met. Sad times leaving a country i've grown to love, but also very exciting heading to another I don't know enough about...
Turkey has almost come to an end now - it's about 5 days ride to the border of Iran, which we set off for tomorrow. We were here much longer than expected - and I'm very happy about that...It's an incredible country with some of the most amazing people I've ever met. Sad times leaving a country i've grown to love, but also very exciting heading to another I don't know enough about...
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